The Organic Beauty Expert

Loc'd beauty? Twisted diva? Soon to be bride? Then grab your dress and head to NYC for your "close up!"

Keichelle Hendricks, owner of Kukaberry's is looking for you! I talk about natural and nothing is more natural to me than my hair, my wonderful truly natural state. So when I got this request for models, I had to let you all know. So if you live in NJ / NY / CT / PA you need to represent the beauty of our natural state of head!

Keichelle is preparing a client/ model list for her Fantasy Bride Photo Shoot.

The October photo shoot will kick off the photography portion for her upcoming "Natural Bride Hairstyling Guide"  and 'How To'  DVD.

She is looking for brides, grooms, brides maids and flower girls of all hues and hair lengths with naturally curly, kinky hair or locks (dreadlocks).

She wants everyday, beautiful people willing to pull their bridal gear out of retirement for a chance of a life time opportunity to relive their memories with a custom designed one of a kind bridal hair 'do fit' for a queen and her court at my upcoming 'Fantasy Bridal Photo Shoot'.

Her requests:

-I'd like to complete my goal by the Dec 31st of this year!
-I need suggestions on how to go about finding the the right models fast!
-Please email all suggestions and check out my website at www.kukaberrys.com

So OBE readers, if you know somebody, pass this on and let Kiechelle know OBE sent ya!

Five Steps to Lovely Locs

No matter whether your locs are small or big, fine or nappy, they are beautiful. The last year has been so wonderful, watching the different textures of my hair transform and emerge. When I see a person with locs walking down the street, or at a cafe, or anywhere, I almost always go up to them and comment how beautiful their hair is. One white girl last year told me she was so shocked that I said it as her experience with black loc'd folks wasn't always so warm. I told her that anyone who had anything negative to say probably didn't know their dreadlock history. Most people assume it's exclusively black, but locs have been around for centuries. The Celts, the Arabs and the Chinese were wearing dreads back in the day. They weren't a fashion or lifestyle statement, it was simply a natural occurrence of the day. Hair, no matter the texture, will start to dread if not tended to. Marley locs are created that way and many people with super curly hair do the same: they wash it, but don't comb it and after a few months, it's matted.

But if you have locs that are still fairly new, like a year or so, you may still be in that "what do I do with them?" mode. So I've compiled five tips that I've learned over this year (I'm not a loctician) that may help you relax on your way to lovely, lovely locs.

1. Don't overtwist. This is a piece of advice that I can't seem to follow, but I know that I should. Once your hair has loc'd, you should twist the new growth only once a month. Preferably after washing, your hair has dried and you're using some type of oil or cream. There's a wonderful site for natural hair, Naani Shoppe, and I've heard some great stuff about the products.

One of the issues that may arise from overtwisting is thin locs. They can also just occur naturally as your locs grow. You have two choice for thin locs: intertwine with another loc. You can do by braiding the thin loc with another; twisting in with another loc and securing with a pin or small rubber band. Or cut the thin loc off and start again.

2. Wrap your hair at night. Now, don't think the do-rag is just a black thing! If you've got locs, you want to wrap it up at night. One, you lessen your chances of getting lint and debris stuck in your locs. Second, your give your hair a chance to relax and maintain uniformity. Lastly, you keep your hair off your face and cut down the risks of oily skin. I would recommend using a silk scarf versus a cotton scarf. You can buy at your local drug store or use that scarf you've been waiting to use for that perfect outfit.

3. Wash your hair and condition once a month.  Somewhere somebody gave out some bad advice that if you got locs, you can't wash your hair. That's nasty!  And unfortunately, many people still think loc'd lovelies don't wash their hair. Maybe some of you don't, but you should. In general, I only wash my hair around four times a month. When I take a shower it may get wet, but normally, the shampoo and water mix is pretty seldom. Of course, if you work out and sweat, your shampoo regime may be different. But you must wash your hair. Use whatever shampoo works best for you. Products with sea salt water work great to tighten your new locs, like LUSH Big Shampoo. You could also check out Bumble and Bumble's line of shampoos, like Sunday or Seaweed or Dr. Bronner's Baby Shampoo works just fine as well.

Conditioning once a month helps to keep your locs soft and healthy. I've only recently started doing, it but I've noticed that my hair feels softer to the touch, looks great and of course, they smell lovely. I use Curls Coconut Dream Conditioner but use what fits your budget and your needs.

4. Moisturize when you can. I initially thought that my locs needed daily care. They don't. Which is probably why I love them so! But every once in a while, it's a good idea to moisturize. You won't need a whole handful of product, just a few drops will do you. Here's a nice recipe that won't break the bank:

Olive Oil Locs

4 oz extra virgin olive oil
2 sprigs of fresh, clean rosemary
10 drops of ylang ylang OR
4 drops of peppermint and 2 drops of tea tree oil

In a glass or plastic bottle, add four ounces of olive oil
Add the sprigs of rosemary and let sit for a month.
Remove the sprigs (optional) and add the essential oil blends.

5. Just relax and let your locs grow. If nothing else, growing my locs has taught me patience. Once your hair is loc'd there's really nothing you can do. You can't make it grow faster, you can't beat that awkward stage. You just have to relax and let it grow.

If you have any other tips for locs, please feel free to leave a comment. I get a lot of emails concerning locs, so good advice is always appreciated.

Mixed Chicks Shampoo

Review from Julia

Mixed Chicks Shampoo -- Niche Hair Care Not natural based

First let me confess that I am not a "mixed chick," at least not in the biracial context.  That aside, I loved the Mixed Chicks shampoo. As a woman with mature, shoulder length locks, I typically end up using almost half a bottle of shampoo in order to get any kind of lather. Mixed Chicks shampoo didn't feel at all watered down and didn't get lost in my thick hair. I purposely didn't use any conditioner but not only did my hair still feel soft and moisturized, but my hands were left unbelievably soft too. As an extra bonus, I barely put a dent in the bottle - using maybe 1/8 of the 10oz bottle. I've already recommended it to my sister who is looking for moisture and curl definition for her very thick hair. Check out their website for their other products.

Pros:

• won't strip moisture from hair
• curl definition
• pleasant scent
• substantial enough for the thickest hair
• great value

Cons:

• can't find in most stores
• may cause build up over time

Overall:

This is a product I will definitely use again, and the quality makes me interested in trying their other products as well. This could also be a great gift, especially for a teenager struggling to control frizzy hair without weighing it down.

One Year Loc'd -- Take a Photo Tour

At the end of this month it will be a year since I started my locs. I can't believe it! What a wonderful journey it has been. When I first decided to loc, I tried to read everything I could about the "right" way to loc my hair.

Whether you're white, black, asian, spanish or any of the lovely varieties in between, you know that hair acts as a centerpiece for you as a person. I learned that lesson in 1991 when I shaved all my hair off. I was judged by my hair. So I was questioned as to my sexuality or health status (are you a lesbian? do you have cancer?) So I knew all too well what can happen when you don't look like everyone else. Many people are under the impression that dreadlocks are a black thing, some militantly so. After some reading though, one would learn that dreadlocks have a long history that can't be "claimed" by anyone. Those of the loc'd head share a common thread, I think. Some of us. If you disregard those who do it because it will freak their parents out, the rest of us are going against the grain. Some people have lost or have been refused employment because of the "loc hysteria." So in the loc world there are all variations of styles and looks, which I absolutely love!

So I wanted to post a photo journey of my loc travels. Hope you enjoy and I hope it helps answers some of the questions.

LEFT: This is me two months after having Sebastian and two days before I went in for my twists. It was naturally locking in the Marley dreadlock way, but since I was fat and bloated, this look just didn't make me feel sexy.

RIGHT: I took this picture as soon as I came home from the hairdresser because my momma wanted to know what I had done to my hair (now!) Not knowing what the journey would be, I thought my locs were looking quite fine. Little did I know that as soon as I sweat or forgot my scarf, this look was gone. It's during this period that many people just continue to go back and keep this look. Personally, my time for sitting in the chair are over. I can't take a whole day to talk and get twisted, you know. But this initial stage, loc infancy, is also the hardest time. You're waiting for it to lock and you have to constantly maintain it. You're unsure of whether to wash it, and if you do, with what.

What I learned? It's hair and you have to wash it. Period. You have hairdressers who will tell you to wait three months before washing. Although I am not a cosmetologist, my lay advice would be to find another person. You should wait a few weeks initially, but you sweat, you got dirt, lint etc, floating around. You have to wash. What you need to know before washing, is are you going to twist it back, have it done or just let it go. Depending on your hair type, the loc process takes a bit of time. Since I am thankfully naturally nappy, my hair loc'd within a few months. Some with less naps will take more. That is the journey of locs for me. It teaches you patience because unless you're going to add loc extensions, you have to go through each stage as it happens.

LEFT: This photo is exactly seven days after my twists. So you can see they're already starting to "stand." The Buckwheat phase. Hence...

...get yourself a nice scarf! I bought this one at Gallerie Lafayette in Paris ($250) and was saving it for a special occasion. Honey, this thing is pure silk so I wore it at the store, to bed. Go ahead and treat yourself to a nice scarf because you will get a lot of wear from it.

RIGHT: This photo was taken April 23rd, so about two and a half months. It's pretty much loc's by now. Now I know you don't want to spend a whole lot of money on your hair products, but I highly recommend LUSH's Big Shampoo. The sea salt (and the rest of the ingredients, really) really helps to keep your loc's clean and tight. You can try to make it yourself, but more than likely you will use too much salt and dry your hair out. It's worth it.

LEFT: This is May, almost June. The hair does what it will. During this time I used three products: the hair milk that I make (I am launching it again in the next few weeks,) Knotty Boy and a hair oil. After washing my hair, I used a combination of my hair milk and Knotty Boy, just to twist the new growth. Once a week I added some hair oil. That's it. You just gotta leave it alone to do what it has to do.

RIGHT: Look at my Hawaiian tan!! I miss living there! I digress... This pic was taken in July after much romping through the ocean. No wonder Jamaicans have such beautiful locs. The sea salt tightens your locs nothing can get through them, not even the sand. And just look how my hair has grown. It's so funny looking back at the photos now. I wash my hair now whenever I want and let it air dry. While it's still a little damp, I use the hair milk and Knotty Boy. For while I used styling gel, but I didn't notice that it really did anything. Didn't have enough holds for the new growth.

LEFT: This one was taken here in San Diego in my new messy office in November! Fully loc'd and feeling beautiful. Now I add all kinds of stuff to my hair. I no longer use Knotty Boy, though. After washing, I just use the hair milk and it works great at keeping the new growth in check.

The number one lesson in loc growth: let it go and let it grow. Discover the true texture of your hair. I was so surprised to feel my nappy hair was so soft and has a unique wave of its own. My hair is truly beautiful in its natural state and I can't imagine the day when I might cut it off. My husband loves it, my daughter is envious and even shockingly, my momma likes it. She is straight from the Old South of keeping naps in check so I was very shocked when she complimented me on my hair. She's 70 and still surprising me!

Since Sebbie is always home with me when I'm working online, I have to post a shot of Marley. Another natural head in the Kane family. So if any of you have multi-culti kids like me, share this pic with your kids. Marley loves her fluff, as we've named her hair, and HATES when I do it any other way. So parents, it's up to us to set the environment where our children love their hair as it is. Yeah, they may break a few combs, but they are so naturally beautiful!

Thanks for joining me on my loc journey. So many of you have sent questions about what to expect, so I hope this helps. Make sure you keep an eye out for the first episode of Organic Beauty Review when I cover loc care on video. Would love to hear about your loc journey so feel free to contact me.

BTW, thanks to Mac and iLife this journey was infinitely easier than actually taking a picture!

Loc'd Up: Making loc butter, oils and tips on dreadlock care

I love my locs! I have had many different hairstyles over the years, but locking my hair has been a journey, not just a new style. It's an extension of myself, my ideas and my beauty. It's not a political statement (though, hair is an issue), it's not a way to stand out from the crowd (though I do). For the past 10 months I have found it so difficult to take my hands out of my hair! A few months ago I had to cut a small dread that was too thin; it sits on my desk where I write and work everyday. The complexities of the intertwining of hair reminds me of who I am and how beautiful that person is.

Dreadlocks have a unique history and have been dated back centuries. Many people believe that dreads are inherently dirty and foul-smelling. For those who don't wash their hair or who lead an unhealthy life, I suppose this is the case. As a black woman, I never wash my hair more than once a week, more if I go to Bikram Yoga classes, but on the whole, once a week is sufficient. I know that most white, Asian and Hispanic women wash their hair more frequently and think that once a week hair washing equals greasy dirty hair. Not true, but again, each person is different and depending on diet and personal hygiene, everybody has their own unique scent, even without dreads. Suffice to say, dreads do not equal dirty.

In the beginning, when you're first growing you locs, you may not wash them as frequently as you would like, but you can clean your scalp to remove smell, dirt and build-up. You can also use herbal sprays to freshen up your hair. Here's a quick recipe you can make at home to have your hair feeling and smelling fresh.

Cleanser and Spritzer

2 8 oz spray bottles
Witch Hazel 86% (buy from any drugstore)
Sandalwood or Neroli Hydrosol (Distillate)
Tea Tree Essential Oil
Rosemary Essential Oil
Ylang Ylang Essential Oil
Plastic pipette (dropper)

In one spray bottle, use equal amounts of witch hazel combined with a hyrdosol (50/50 mix). Close bottle tightly and shake to blend.

Section hair into equal parts. Wet a cotton washcloth with mixture (a small amount) and methodically clean scalp until whole head is done.

For the spritzer, combine above mixture and add two drops of Tea Tree, 4 drops of Rosemary and 12 drops off Ylang Ylang. Avoid getting into eyes.

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You'll hear all kinds of advice about whether to use beeswax in growing dreads. From my own experience, I have found beeswax a godsend. Now that my hair has loc'd, I use the Hair Milk that I make (and sold), but in the beginning, I needed the beeswax to keep the locs together. Searching online, I've found people who state that using it leads hair breakage. It may depend on your hair type, but again, I couldn't have gone without my wax. So below is a very easy loc butter you can make and use throughout the life of your dreads.

Loc Butter

4 oz yellow beeswax prilles
2 oz shea butter
2 oz hemp seed oil
2 oz coconut oil
2 oz olive oil
Mixing bowl
Containers for butter

Combine beeswax and shea butter in double boiler and heat until melted. Let stay over heat for additional minute then pour into mixing bowl. While beeswax and shea butter are mixing add other oils and mix well.

Mix for at least 10 minutes then pour into containers. Leave to set (or put in refrigerator to speed up the setting process). If it's too firm, that's okay since you only need to use a little on the new growth when twisting.
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Speaking of twisting, this should only be done after you wash your hair and never on dry hair. I find this bit of advice very difficult to follow as I am a twister anyway. Yet it's important no to twist too often as this can lead to thin locs, breakage and weak dreads.

When to wash? Isn't this the question. In the beginning, I still washed my hair every week and then had someone twist it back. After two months, though, my hair was staring to dread and I've maintained it ever since. If your hair is thinner, you may want to wait and just clean your scalp and rinse your hair. Your lifestyle and expendable income dictates your frequency. If you can pay someone to twist your hair until you get comfortable, then wash once a week or if you can maintain it yourself, go ahead and do it. My hair was natural before I loc'd it so it didn't take very long to dread; others need more time. In this case, I would suggest two-strand twists until your hair gets used to growing together.

As your locs grow, keeping them moisturized and healthy is important to their continued growth. So along with the butter, you can use this oil to touch up and add shine and keep them supple and soft.

Loc Oil

4oz bottle
2 oz shea oil
1 oz hemp seed oil
1/2 oz olive oil
1/2 oz carrot seed oil
Lemongrass (rosemary, sandalwood or cedarwood) essential oil

Combine all oils and add 8 drops of lemongrass oil. Pour into bottle and use daily to hydrate scalp and add moisture to locs. If you make an essential oil blend, use no more than 10 drops per 4 oz. of Loc Oil

Alternative recipe with easier to find ingredients:

2 oz olive oil
1 oz coconut oil
1 oz hemp seed oil

For great deals on ingredients, go to the link for Organic Ingredients on this page or go to your local natural food store. Most of them can even special order items. I would love to hear your feedback and suggestions for healthy, beautiful locs. Feel free to email me along with pics of your locs!